Week of October 1, 2002

BINION'S HORSESHOE CASINO
Fremont Street at Casino Center Boulevard


Theme: Shabby Cowboy
Opened: 1951
Total Investment: Privately owned.
Known for: Willingness to take any size bet, as long as it's your first bet.
Marketing Niche: Willingness to take any size bet, as long as it's your first bet.
Gambler's Intensity: High
Cocktail speed: Medium
Dealers: Grim
Bosses: Always hovering
Tables: 84
Rare games: None
Slots: 1,352
Rooms: 373
Surrounding area: At the heart of the old Las Vegas, on Fremont Street, directly across from the Golden Nugget, with the Fremont and Four Queens casinos nearby.
Website: binionscom
Overall rating: 85
Joe Bob's bankroll: Down $150 after four hours of low-limit Texas Hold 'Em: total to date +$85

LAS VEGAS - The best gamblers have always come from three places--Texas, New York and London--and twenty years ago a pleasant series of coincidences brought all three of these eccentric groups together at the World Series of Poker.

The result was a book that really explained poker to the world at large for the first time. Al Alvarez, the British poet and literary critic, spent four weeks in the exotic world of Binion's Horseshoe Casino, interviewing the great players he had only read about, trying to get to the essence of the game he loved, and "The Biggest Game in Town" (Chronicle, $15.95, 188 pp.) is the happy result. It's probably the best book ever written about the strange subculture of professional poker at the highest levels, and it's become so famous among patrons of the game that it's being reissued for a new generation.

Alvarez was actually inspired to go the World Series of Poker by another book, the self-published "Super/System," edited by Doyle Brunson, a technical work which explains all the various poker games through the eyes of the top players. It was regarded in the seventies as a betrayal of the poker fraternity. Brunson, a world champion Hold 'Em player from Texas, essentially gave away everyone's secrets, and the game has never been the same since.

Alvarez perfectly captures the poker world in the transition year of 1981, when it was still dominated by Texans like Johnny Moss, Amarillo Slim Preston, Puggy Pearson, Crandall Addington, and the Jewish contingent of Stu Ungar, Perry Green, and Jay Heimowitz from the Catskills. (For the record, Ungar beat Green at the final table.) As usual, the pros made "Texans against Jews" side bets, and it was one of the last years when the tournament would revolve around such a simple geographic and ethnic rivalry.

Up until that year, Binion's Horseshoe was a place where all the poker players from around the world came to play against the "big boys" and see just how good they were--and the big boys in residence were happy to take their money. Alvarez' book changed all that. He popularized "Super/System," for one thing, so today every quality player has read and studied it, especially Brunson's own long section on how to play Hold 'Em. Add to that the use of computers and the heavy influx of Asian players, and the old cowboy-hatted seat-of-their-pants players seem almost as quaint as the guys who learned to make a living playing gin rummy at Catskills resorts. The old Texas and the old New York are both gone, but it's nice to have this chronicle of a wide-eyed Londoner who catches the essence of Vegas just a few years before it became a theme park.

Even though the World Series of Poker is still the biggest event of its kind in the world, even that's changed. Jack Binion, son of Horseshoe founder Benny Binion, has established a tournament almost as large at his Horseshoe Casino in Tunica, Mississippi, and Lyle Berman, chairman of Lakes Gaming, recently announced the creation of a World Poker Tour that will kick off at Bellagio and hit several casinos around the country, ultimately offering more money to the players who can bankroll that lifestyle.

Nevertheless, poker players still flock to Binion's in Vegas every May for the World Series, and first-timers are inevitably shocked to see how rundown the place is. This dark CAVE with the shabby carpet and the worn felt is the world capital of poker? Yes it is. It may be the most unprepossessing poker room in the world, but poker players have never liked fancy things anyway. It looks, in fact, much as it looked in 1981 when Alvarez discovered it and explained its mysteries to the world.

Go there at your own risk. It still eats people alive.

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E-mail Joe Bob Briggs, "The Vegas Guy," at JoeBob@upi.com or visit Joe Bob's Web site at www.joebobbriggs.com. Snail-mail: P.O. Box 2002, Dallas, Texas 75221. cutline: The dream of sitting behind this mountain dwells within the heart of everyone who sits down in the poker room of Binion's Horseshoe.

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© Copyright 2002 United Press International and Joe Bob Briggs

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